Pain Paillasse

It's tough work, but somebody has got to do it... With the end of our official language training just three weeks away, I have been spending a good deal of time at one of Clermont-Ferrand's best "boulangeries," taking pictures and learning all about the story of M. Riviere in order to prepare my final project en francais.

I took about a hundred pictures on two separate pre-dawn visits. (A few of them are attached, the rest you can see in my "web albums") Any American who believes what they've heard about the French being lazy simply doesn't realize the enormous amount of work, focus, dedication and love that is actually behind the French products we all appreciate the most- in this case, amazingly fresh and delicious bread and pasteries!

M. Riviere has owned this boulangerie for over thirty years. He and his wife started the business when they were 22-year-old newly-weds, and they're finally in semi-retirement, with new owners taking over.

After that much time, it's hard to just walk away, however. M. Riviere seems to have been born for this work. During their early years in the business, he and his wife worked alone, baking breads with the finest flours and the expert's touch, all night long, and then charming customers with a showman's talent all day. Their two children spent most of their "familiy time" in the boulangerie.

With the introduction of the new, patented, and exclusive "Paillasse" bread in the 1980's, the little boulangerie became a booming business. The team grew as teenagers would come as apprentices to learn under the master. Because M. Riviere insited on keeping the team very small and efficient, these apprentices became like family, literally growing up in the prestigious boulangerie.

Today, M. Riviere is still there most mornings, overseeing the final moments when the bread from the night's baking fills up the shop, and greeting the regular customers who come even from the suburbs on the weekends.

While I've had a chance to sample a good portion of M. Riviere's creations, a complete exploration is part of the plan while Javier is here! I'm counting down the days - his six week visit begins when the flight lands from China next Sunday!